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THOSE GLITCHES WILL COST YOU $$$! Spend those few extra dollars to maximize the attractiveness of your vehicle and remove any obstacle to a quick sale. Keep in mind that your vehicle isn't the only one on the market, and the other seller(s) may have invested the time and money to make those few small repairs. When hundreds, and even thousands of dollars are involved, it is inevitable that the buyer will note even the most minor problem with your vehicle, You would too! And if you have more than one glitch, it can sour a deal on the spot! Preparing your vehicle for sale can make the difference between a quick sale, and a long, frustrating ordeal that costs you hundreds of dollars in the end. Regardless of how well your vehicle has been maintained, it it the buyer's perception that leads to a sale and not necessarily the facts. Sixty of the most common mechanical problems are listed here, and dozens more are addressed in the solutions. We have separated solutions into three levels. Each is color coded for easy reference: | |
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For your convenience, links to automotive services are located in the left two columns. . |
NOTE: THE ITEM YOU SELECT WILL APPEAR AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE IN ONE OF THE COLUMNS
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ENGINE PROBLEMS STARTING -Won't "catch", makes a funny noise or clicks, have to turn key off and on serveral times before it "catches". If engine turns over slowly, may be a low battery that is not engaging starter. Check for charge. Starter Solenoid probably
needs replacing. STARTING -Engine makes a screeching noise when it starts or when I rev the engine. Loose drive belts. Check tension, should be rigid, no play at all. To tighten, adjust alternator position. If belts are tight, check inside surface. If they are glazed and shiny apply belt dressing (available at any parts store). If noise is constant for
extended periods, and if above measures don't work,
fan bearings probably need replacing. Fix them soon, they
will disentigrate within 24 hours. STARTING -Engine won't turn over. Before you mess with the battery check the fuses. Most ignition systems have a fuse, and it may be burned out. Unfortunately, this may indicate a greater problem in the electrical system, probably a short. If it happens again you should get it fixed. Dead battery. If you have a hydrometer (a little device that checks battery charge), check the charge. If low, recharge. Loose cable clamps may be the problem, and the engine isn't getting a sufficient current. Check the nuts on the cable clamps. Corroded battery posts may be the problem if the battery is charged and the clamps are tight. Disconnect the clamps and clean both the surface of the post and inside the clamp. reconnect. Be sure to tighten the nuts good and tight. Apply a coat of vaseline or grease to the clamps to retard corroding. If the above measures don't get results, the starter may be kaput, or hopefully, the cable connection at the starter has worked loose. Either way, you'll probably need a pro to fix it. If the starter is OK you likely have ignition problems, which involves repair to the electrical system. OVERHEATING Defective radiator cap: If the cap is old and the gasket is cracked or partially torn away, replace the cap. Check coolant: But not when the engine is cold. Start the engine with the radiator cap off. The coolant may appear to be OK, or just a little low, but when it is circulating through the engine it may be WAY low. If low, fill the radiator while engine is running, before it gets too hot. This is one of those "DUH!" warnings; DON'T CHECK COOLANT LEVEL AFTER THE ENGINE HAS REACHED OPERATING TEMPERATURE! Many people aren't aware that there is tremendous pressure built up in an engine cooling system. If you take off the cap while the engine is hot, you may sustain serious injury. Check coolant: If it is discolored (rusty and dirty looking) you may have a clogged radiator. Try a can of flush and see if it helps. Just follow the instructions on the can. Check lower hoses: Any hoses to the radiator that are the bigger type, with the coiled wire inside, could be collapsing from the suction of circulation if they are old, or if you have recently replaced the hoses that are the "El Cheapo" brand. Look at them when the engine has reached operating temp. If they are collapsing get new ones. Check for water leaks if the coolant keeps diasppearing (duh!). Common causes of leaks are; bad or cheap hoses, loose radiator petcock, leaky radiator, leaky heater hoses, or a bad water pump. A defective water pump leaks just a little water at first, and it get progressively worse. This problem can go on for months. Fix it soon, or end up stranded by the side of the road. When the pump goes, it will go quickly. A leaky radiator will have to be fixed. Stop Leak may stem the flow, but it isn't a permanent solution. POOR PERFORMANCE -Engine misses and has poor acceleration. If you are the handyman type, pull the plugs and check them. If they are caked with carbon, or "wet" with fuel and plugged with a black sludge, you need to change them. But, this condition also signals a problem with your fuel system, the mixture is too lean, or too rich. You should have a mechanic adjust the fuel mixture, it won't cost much. Another possible cause, probably in older engines, is "blowby", which is oil that escapes from the cylinders and is channeled into the exhaust system. Unfortunately, this is a symptom of bad rings, and has no inexpensive solution. Check plug wire connections at both ends, at the plugs and on the distributor cap. Make sure they are seated and not loose. If the leads are loose on the plug end, pull the rubber cap back and look at the metal connectors. Sometimes they are expanded and won't clasp the plug tightly. Just pinch them slightly with some pliers (but not too much!). Reconnect it and see if it helps. On the other end, at the distributor, if the little rubber caps are cracked they are old and have lost their flexibility. They probably aren't holding the lead tightly in the cap. You should replace them. If the plugs are. clean, and the connections seem to be good, check the rubber on the outside of the plug wires. If it is cracked, install new ones. Older vehicles with a carburator have an air filter which lays inside the large device that is clamped onto the carburator, on the very top of the engine. Unscrew the wingnut that holds it down and take off the top part. Check the filter. If it is black and obviously filthy, replace it. In older vehicles there may be a problem in the fuel system. It could be as simple as a fouled fuel line filter. Over the years, condensation in the gas tank causes rust to form on the bottom. This is usually a very minor amount, but it may be enough to send rust particles through the line and foul the filter. The good news is, it will be inexpensive to fix this. Again, in older vehicles, namely, those that have a carburation system rather then fuel injection, the carburator can be causing the problem for a variety of reasons. Almost all of them can be fixed with a rebuild kit, and the cost is minimal. Get a tuneup. Specify a minor tune, as a major tune is pretty steep. 9 times out of 10 a minor tune will do the trick. Note that this problem can involve anything from a dirty carburator (if you have one), to a plugged fuel line, timing, fuel mixture, or a more complex problem. The mechanic will discover the problem in the tuneup process and advise you of it. STRANGE BEHAVIOR -Engine keeps trying to run after I shut it off. This is "pre-ignition" firing and is almost always a sign that the timing is way off. This problem may be accompanied by backfiring if you have a carburator. Best advice, get a complete tuneup. Don't wait too long, because backfiring can cause serious damage to your vehicle, and even start a fire under the hood. STRANGE BEHAVIOR -Engine backfires This is a timing problem, or your carburator needs adjustment. It could also indicate your timing belt (or chain) is defective. Whichever of these it is, you need professional help. STRANGE BEHAVIOR -Engine makes a "pinging" sound. Probably low octane gas. You may be driving a vehicle that requires high octane, or premium gas. Check your manufacturer's specs for the engine, or just try several tanks of premium. If this doesn't help you may need a tuneup. Have a pro check it, he can probably tell you in a matter of minutes what the problem is. -Engine just stops running all of the sudden. May be a variety of problems. This might be vapor lock, which is caused when a heated fuel line creates a vapor that "blocks" the fuel, or it may be a timing belt, or an injector sensor (one of many), or a sticky carburator float...to name just a few things. Have a pro find the problem. HEATER -Heater won't Heat. If you haven't replaced the thermostat in a while, that may be the culprit. The thermostat is located on the top of the engine, usually the front, at the point where the radiator hose connects. There is usually a ball-shaped fitting bolted to the engine that the hose is clamped to. Remove the fitting, the thermostat should be nestled inside. Check to see if air is coming from the vent when you turn on the fan. If not, the vent may be frozen shut, or the cable defective or loose. HEATER -Heater heats too slow. Thermostat. If you just moved from a warmer climate, you probably have the wrong thermostat. They are spring action devices, and the ones for warm climes have stronger springs, so the temp must be higher (pressure) before they open. The thermostat may still be the problem if you've lived here all your life. Old ones get covered with deposits which restrict proper travel of the seal disk. HEATER -Heater fan won't run. Fuse. Check and replace as necessary. Fan motor. There may be several causes of this problem, but no simple way to isolate the problem that can be applied by an amature. It's best to have a pro look at it. AIR CONDITIONING -AC won't cool. Check the fuse. In most systems, the fan and ac compressor are on different circuits, so it will blow air, but no cool when the ac fuse is out. Loose belt. Should be firm, no slack at all. Requires adjustment of compressor position. Needs recharging. Sorry, no self-charging kits anymore. Take your vehicle to a garage or mechanic. AIR CONDITIONING -Keeps recycling on and off. Needs compressor oil. Included in the recharge. AIR CONDITIONING -Makes a funny noise. Bad news; If the compressor makes noise it's probably bearings in the pully. Replace the compressor. BATTERY -Battery keeps losing charge. Have the battery recharged. If the cells are no good it won't hold enough current to start your car. Get a new one. You can simplify this process by purchasing a hydrometer at you local parts store. These devices are a simple means of determining if the lead plates in the battery have lost their "potency". A budget brand hydrometer will only cost a few bucks, but even though you may not need it very often, it comes in very handy when you do. Anyone can use one with the simple instructions on the package. May be the alternator. Nowadays the generator and alternator are in one unit. An alternator sends the current to the battery that keeps it charged. When it starts going bad it sends juice, but not enough, so the battery is slowly drained. If you have EFI, or Electronic Fuel Injection, DON'T DRIVE THE CAR IN THIS CONDITION FOR LONG! In older cars the motor would run even if battery went dead, or the generator failed, but in EFI cars, the engine needs the spark from the battery, or alternator to run. If your alternator goes out you will be able to drive just so long as your battery has a charge in it. Once it's dead, you're afoot! A pro can tell you if this is the problem. Short in the system. A short is syphoning off power a little at a time, or it could be overnight if the short is bad enough.This is an electrical system problem and will require professional repair. BATTERY -Engine won't turn over. Fouled connections. First, determine if the battery is dead. Use a hydometer if you have one, or find a 1 foot length of electrical wire. Trim the insulation back at both ends. Holding the wire by the insulated portion, hold one end on either post, then lightly brush the other end across the other post. If there is a bright, instantaneous spark the battery is charged. Loosen the nuts on the cable clamps where they secure to the battery. The clamps probably won't move. Work them one way, then the other until they start to move, or insert a large screw driver tip into the gap in the clamp and force it farther in. Pry gently both directions until it loosens. If you don't have a post cleaner, use a wire brush, or just the edge of a knife, and scrape the posts until they are shiny clean. Then clean the inside of the clamps and reconnect. You might apply a coating of vaseline or common grease the the surfaces first to retard corrosion. Cinch the nuts tight and start your vehicle. Dead battery. Follow the steps in the solution for "won't hold a charge" problem. Ignition problem. If the battery is charged, and terminals clean, you may have a problem in the ignition system. There are other possible causes, but they all require a mechanic. |
STEERING -Steering is hard to turn and sometimes jerky. Low PS fluid or belt. Check the PS fluid. The dipstick is usually fixed to the bottom of the filler cap on the pump. Check belt while you're at it. Should be very firm, no play. Have a mechanic make the adjustment if the belt is loose as you may have to adjust other components. Power steering pump. The jerky action, in particular, indicates a pump going bad. Must replace. STEERING -Steering pulls to right or left. Check Tire pressure This problem may be just low pressure in one of the front tires. Front end alignment. Toe-in or alignment may need adjustment. There are other causes for this problem, all require a mechanic. STEERING -Steering makes a whirring noise. Low fluid level. This problem is usually low fluid. If this doesn't take care of the noise, take it to the shop. STEERING -Front end vibrates at high speed. Wheel balance. This problem may be just poor balancing on a tire, or none at all. If you have recently had a tire fixed, put on new tires, or have the spare on the front, the vibration is probably balancing. It is also possible to throw a weight on bump roads. Front end alignment. Toe-in or alignment may need adjustment. This problem is usually evident by uneven wear on the front tires. Worn tie rod ends. On an older car, vibration may be worn tie rod ends. These must be replaced. STEERING -Steering makes a screeching noise. Turning too hard. If this happens just when you are turning as far as the wheel will go you are causing it yourself. Be carefull not to do this as it wears the pump and will eventually cause a malfunction. Pump bearings If the noise is constant the problem is probably the pump bearings. Make sure the noise is coming from the steering pump, several other components also screech, including loose belts. BRAKES -Brake pedal to "soft", won't stop quickly. Low on brake fluid. Find BF reservoir in engine compartment, usually on rear wall (at back of engine). There should be a semi-clear plastic reservoir on yop of it with markings on the side to measure level of BF in system. Fill to proper level. Make sure you have clean, fresh fluid. Air in the lines. Sometimes just adding BF when system is very low will trap air in the lines, but this usually happens after having brakes worked on. The system needs "bleeding". This is not a difficult procedure, but messy and requires two people, most people prefer to let a mechanic mess with it. BRAKES -Brake fluid is leaking. First, determine where the BF is leaking from. If it's at a wheel the hose probably needs replacing, but at the master cylinder (under the hood) it may need a master cylinder...could be seals, have a mechanic look it over. BRAKES -Brakes grabbing, pull left or right. Shoe fouled. If you have recently repaired a leak some of the BF got on the shoe before it was fixed and it has become "tacky". When hot, it increases drag on the drum and actually stops more efficiently than dry shoes. If bad enough you may need to replace the shoe, but usually, a mechanic can sand off the fouled area. If you have NOT fixed a leak recently, then you may have to. The fluid is coming from somewhere! This is a sign of a leak at the drum. Shoe adjustment. Shoes out of adjustment may either not apply enough pressure to the drum, or vise versa. In this case, a shoe needs to be adjusted so it applies less pressure, the same as the other shoes. Drum scored. Some shops will "turn" the drums as a standard part of a brake job, some won't. The drums become grooved over time and must be machined until they have a smooth surface. Badly scored drums reduce the braking surface, which makes some of the brakes more effective than others. Always specify that drums be turned if necessary. A mechanic will advise you of this problem. BRAKES -Brakes make grinding noise when stopping. Worn shoes. When shoes wear too far it allows the metal of the shoe mounts to rub against the metal drum, which produces a grinding noise. Get this fixed right away as the drums will become badly scored, AND your braking efficiency is reduced. TRANSMISSION -Won't shift when cold until I've driven several miles. Fouled filter screen. This symptom could have several causes, but they all require professional attention. Many times, this happens when the filter screen inside the transmission collects so many large particles it is blocked, so fluid doesn't flow as it should. Your transmission fluid is probably dirty, or the transmission has sustained heat damage at one time and keeps fouling the fluid with carbon deposits. TRANSMISSION -Transmission slips between gears. Band adjustment. This is the mst common transmission problem and can be fixed easily. The "bands" need adjusting. TRANSMISSION -Gears grind when shifting (manual). Clutch adjustment. The clutch isn't travelling far enough to disengage the flywheel, so it is almost like shifting without a clutch at all. If the clutch is old it may mean you need an entirely new one, but all clutches can be adjusted several times before they need replacement. TIRES -Tires on the front have all the tread worn away on the inside of the tire, and hardly any on the outside (or vice versa). Front end alignment This is a classic symptom of front end misalignment and/or toe-in (or camber). These are separate adjustments, but almost always done under the "alignment" heading. Even if you have had this done recently, you may have hit a big pot hole, or even bumped the curb too hard while parking, and knocked the front end out of kilter again. You can catch an alignment problem, and save your front tires, if you stay alert for other alignment symptoms like steering that pulls to one side or vibration in the front end. TIRES -Losing tread too fast. Cheap tires. Little needed here in way of explanation. Budget tires just don't stand up the way quality brands do. Alignment, rotation If this problem is just the front tires, and the wear is uneven, see the explanation of the previous problem (uneven wear), but there are several other causes of excessive tread wear. If you are driving a front wheel drive vehicle the front tires will wear faster than the rear because the "drivers" (wheels at the power source, not the golf clubs!) do the starting from a dead stop and pull the car everywhere it goes, they are connected to the drive axle. On conventional drive vehicles, which have a long shaft that transfers the power from the engine to the back end, the rear tires wear faster. Rotate the tires every 3-4 months to avoid this problem. Most tire vendors will include a free rotation service as part of the price. Rotating your tires periodically will add, in some cases, years of tread life. The investment is more than worth the savings in the long run, and the safety factor is also a consideration. Blowouts can cause a driver to lose control and have an accident, or go into the ditch at best. TIRES -Front end started vibrating after I got new tires. Poor balance. Just one tire out of balance can cause sever vibration to a front end, or even the entire vehicle body. Take the vehicle back to the vendor and ask them to re-balance the tires. They should do this for no charge. This problem can also occur when you get a flat fixed, or have the spare on the vehicle. If you travel rough country roads, or even streets with pot holes, a weight can be thrown off and cause it. Always check the tires first when vibration occurs before you move on to more complex solutions. Separated tread. Vibration and other symptoms can result from separated tread. A tire is constructed of a casing and, overlaid on top, a thick rubber belt that tapers on both sides. The belt, which is raw rubber, is applied to the casing with an adhesive and the tire is placed into a heavy metal mold, filled with extreme air pressure, and "cooked" at high temperature for several hours. The raw rubber is merged with the casing surface and, when cooled, should be almost a single body. However, sometimes the process is flawed, part of the casing gets no adhsive, or there are air pockets under the belt, and a defective tire is the end product. Eventually, the belt will separate from the casing. You can spot this condition if you inspect the tire for "bubbles" in the tread area, or places where the tread suddenly gets wider than the rest. The vendor will replace this tire, probably for nothing unless the tread is pretty worn. You will get an adjustment of some sort if the tire is a quality brand. You can cause tread to separate by heating the tire to high temperature, even the highest quality product. If you are towing someone who is stuck and spin the tires until they smoke, you will probably get some separation. You can also do this if you are stuck yourself. |
LIGHTS -Headlights are dim. System short. You likely have a short in the system which is draining off juice that should be going to the headlights. You will have to have a mechanic fix this, but if you have an insatiable need to know where the short is, remove the fuses from all of your system circuits one at a time, start the engine and turn on the lights. Unless the short is in the ignition or headlight circuits, the lights will work fine when the defective circuit is disbaled. LIGHTS -One blinker won't work even though the bulb comes on. Short or bulb out. Systems vary. Some (very wise) designers have made taillights and blinkers independent of other electrical components, but if they aren't, one bulb out anywhere in the circuit will affect the other lights. Check ALL bulbs, including trunk light, side panel, backup, under-hood, etc. The many variations of system curcuitry makes this a hard problem to diagnose but a mechanic can locate it quickly. LIGHTS -Cab overhead won't work even though bulb appears OK. Door switch defective or sticking. On the front inside pannel of each door is a small plastic button that protrudes from the metal. When the door closes it pushes the button in and breaks the connection, so the overhead light goes off. The opposite happens when the door is opened. Sometimes the switch gets fouled with dirt and chemicals you may clean the car with, so it sticks. If it isn't popping out when the door is open try squirting a dissolving agent on the base of the switch, like isopropyl alchohol, or very hot water (just a small tad!). If the button releases, push it in a number of times with your finger. Apply a small amount of WD40 to keep it lubricated. One of your dor switches may be bad, or the problem may be other components in the circuit. Let a mechanic figure it our if you can't live without your dome light. POWER ACCESSORIES -Power windows/locks/seats won't work. Blown fuse or motor. Anything electrical on the vehicle that has problems, a fuse should be the first thing you check. In the case of windows or locks, there willl be a clue in how many, or how few, of them are affected. If it's just one, it may be a defective motor or a short in the the local area. If it's two, probably a short as two motors rarely go out at once, and if it's ALL of them, almost surely a fuse. Be extremely carefull with power components when your battery is very low. The reason for this is not what you might guess, "Because you will drain the battery?". Nope! There is a point at which your battery has just enough juice to engage a window or lock, but not enough to make it move. Unless the vehicle is a late model, the motor will keep trying to budge the window until it overheats and burns out, and that same thing can happen to every one of the relays in the curcuit. This little mishap can cost you over $1,000. If you find yourself in a situation where you try to open a window or door lock, and it doesn't work, but you smell something hot, TURN THE KEY OFF IMMEDIATELY! Have the battery checked first thing. If it's low this is what was happening. Hopefully, you can catch it soon enough to avoid extensive damage. By the way, this won't happen when the car is running because the alternator would compensate for a low battery, but when the engine is not running, and the battery is almost spent. POWER WINDOWS -Windows are closed, but too much wind noise. Window is out of rubber guide. If a window is loose, or someone pushes on it from the inside, outward, while it's moving, it can be dislodged from its track, that rubber "thingy" that runs along the door frame with the slot in it. This lets in excess air when you are moving at medium to high speeds. Roll the window all the way down and begin raising it slowly. It would help to have another person outside to help. Take note of where the glass came out of the rubber and, as you come to that point, stop the window and make sure it is staying in. The rubber is flexible, so you can expand it with your finger. Make sure the window seats at the top. If the window is loose in its' bracket inside the door there will be "play" in it, and it will break loose from the restraint of the rubber guide easily. Get the window tightened or this will continue to happen. POWER ACCESSORIES -When I use a window or the seat, I smell burning rubber. Serious short in circuit or motor. Hopefully, when this happens you have the presence of mind not to use anything power again until you can get this problem diagnosed. Otherwise, you will almost certainly burn out a motor or damage the circuit relays. This is a serious short, probably a wire that has rubbed on something metal until the insulation is worn away and the wires are exposed. If this happens, it would be wise to take the fuse out so some other person who is unaware of the problem doesn't inadvertently cause expensive damage. WIPERS & WASHERS -Wipers won't work Fuse or defective motor. Anything electrical that malfunctions may be traced to a fuse. If both wipers are inoperable it is probably a fuse as it is highly unlikely that both motors would go out at the same time. On the other hand, just one wiper inoperable is likely a defective motor. However, before you pop for a new motor and an hour of repair time, open the hood and inspect the motor in question. Most of them have the wires connected with little clips that slide over a flat metal lead, or contact. One of these may have come off, or someone working under the hood may have inadvertenly pulled it off. Slip it back on and try the wiper. If this keeps happening the clip may be expanded to the extent that it won't clasp the lead firmly and slips off. Use a pair of pliers to close the clip, but not too much. Try slipping it back on the contact and tugging gently on it. If it stays in place, it will probably stay connected. WIPERS & WASHERS -Washers won't work Disconnected water hose. Check the washer pump, located on the firewall (behind the engine), and the spray nozzles to see if the small hose has come off. If the car is older the hose end may have lost elastisity and remains in an expanded shape even when it's not on the nozzle it fits over. Trim just the expanded part off with a sharp knife and slip it back on. Sometimes these hoses become brittle with age and crack. If this is the case, replace them. Clogged hose. If the hoses are connected check the outlet in the bottom of the water tank. Alot of dirt and grime gets into them and will sometimes plug the hose. Just clean the clog and things should be fine. Defective pump. If all else appears to be ok, check the fuse. If it isn't blown you probably have a defective water pump, or the wires have sliped off the contacts. Check the wires, and if they are in place, you need a new pump. WIPERS & WASHERS -Wipers make noise Wrong blade or angle. This seems like a trivial problem, but if you've ever encountered it, it is anything but trivial. Irritating at best. You probably replaced the blades yourself, no? If this is the case, you bought the budget brand and found a way to make them work. Perhaps you even took the factory arms off and used the new ones (?) Wipers are sensative to several factors; angle and length of the blade, length of the arm and clearance of the arm, or distance from the glass and angle of the glass. These mechanisms were precisely designed by the manufacturer to work properly, but they can't build a wiper that will use any kind of blade and arm assembly. Go to a dealer and buy the recommended replacements for the blades on your model vehicle. If you wish to avoid the hassle of going to a dealer for blades, or live in a small town and must drive 100 miles to a dealer, buy several sets at once and keep some extras on hand. It's either that, or put up with noisy wipers! CLUTCH -Gears grind and clutch won't disengage. Clutch adjustment. Unless your vehicle is older, the clutch probably just needs adjustment. The adjustment here isn't actually to the clutch but the set screw at the top of the arm, near where the arm is attached to the firewall or beneath the dash assembly. Get under the dash and depress the clutch, you will see a small bolt at the top of the arm pushing against another assembly. Assuming your clutch is hydraulic, the assembly it pushes against is either the pushrod that actuates the hydraulic cylinder, or something attached to the rod. The problem is that the rod is not being pushed far enough, so the small bolt on the clutch arm needs to extend FARTHER out from the arm. Adjust it accordingly and try shifting again. If the problem persists, check the hydraulic cylinder for fluid level. Add some if needed. If this doesn't help, you have a problem with the clutch itself, or perhaps the flywheel. Take it to a mechanic. CLUTCH -Clutch is slipping, engine revs but vehicle doesn't speed up. Clutch adjustment or clutch replacement. Slipping is the result when a clutch won't completely engage the transmission with the flywheel. This should only happen when a vehicle is 5 years old or older, unless your clutch was defective from the factory, or you hot rod your vehicle by popping the clutch. "Riding" the clutch can also cause this problem prematurely. Riding means you hold the clutch just part way down, perhaps to make the car just edge ahead at a light, or perhaps to keep the vehicle from rolling backward down a hill. This is very destructive and will wear a clutch in short order. Although there are adjustments that can be made to eliminate slipping, it is advisable to have a qualified mechanic do the work. FINAL PREP ***** quoting an actual shopper *** "I look for signs that a car has been cared for, clean interior, good tires, everything working. Things like dirty oil or a cracked windshield may not mean the car has been abused, but if I'm laying out some significant bucks, I won't take any chances." This pretty much says all that Motor Mart gurus recommend for getting a vehicle ready to place on sale. When people part with their hard earned money, they want to see an exceptional machine, one that exceeds what they may be willing to tolerate. Unfortunately, the true value of a vehicle is many times overshadowed by the perceptions of the buyer. Most people have only a limited knowledge of things mechanical, and some...none at all. They tend to rely on superficial criteria when making a decision about a vehicle. Being aware of this tendency in human nature is a compelling reason to make certain a vehicle is immaculate before showing it for sale. |